The world can be a scary, confusing place for a reactive dog. Proper socialization helps them understand it and gives them the confidence to navigate it with ease. Ian Dunbar rightly said proper socialization isn’t about introducing your dog to everything; it’s about making sure their experiences are positive and safe. The process of figuring out how to socialize a reactive dog would include thoroughly understanding your dog’s triggers, their behavior, their threshold and a well-thought-out plan to help them get through it.
Does your reactive dog need socialization or desensitization?
Let’s first understand what these two terms actually mean. Socialization refers to a dog’s exposure to various environmental stimuli in a controlled and positive manner. It involves building positive associations towards these stimuli and repeated exposures till the dog is confident enough to be at ease. Socialization mainly involves exposure to new stimuli and experiences and is an exercise that continues for life.
On the other hand, desensitization refers to changing a dog’s existing response to certain stimuli that trigger an adverse reaction or make them fearful. Desensitization typically involves gradually exposing them towards their triggers repeatedly and training the dog to have a better response to them. Desensitization generally happens towards stimuli and experiences for which the dog has an already established negative response.
Socialization mainly involves exposure to new stimuli and experiences and is an exercise that continues for life. Desensitization generally happens towards stimuli and experiences for which the dog has an already established negative response.
FURTHER READS: THE ULTIMATE PUPPY SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST
Is it ever too late to socialize a dog?
It may be too late to socialize a dog towards certain stimulus if the dog has a lengthy history of negative associations with it. Eg, it may be difficult to socialize a Bulldog towards bulls if he was originally bred for bull baiting.
The critical socialization period of a puppy’s life ends at around 20 weeks of age. Missing out on this period puts the puppy at a risk of developing behavioral issues stemming from lack of socialization in adulthood.
By this age, it is possible that a pup has developed preconceived notions about certain aspects of their environment. This is when they cannot be socialized, but have to be desensitized towards these triggers.
FURTHER READS: HOW TO TRAIN A RESCUE DOG THE RIGHT WAY
How to socialize a reactive dog
3 Signs of a Poorly Socialized Dog
Positive and gradual exposure to the environment is the essence of puppy socialization. Here are 3 signs of a poorly socialized dog –
1. Fearfulness or adverse reactions to triggers
Many a time you may have come across dogs that act up in a variety of situations such as crowded places, loud noises, grooming salon,s etc. This can be attributed to lack of or poor socialization towards these factors. Their reactions may take one or more of the following forms –
- Excessive barking
- Whining
- Avoidance
- Growling
- Snarling
- Attacking
- Lunging and so on
Most times, the root cause of these reactions is fear. Even though a dog may be a confident biter, it is possible that extreme fearfulness may have caused the dog to act up to that level.
2. Unwillingness to be a part of certain places/ experiences
The “fight or flight” response is a physiological reaction that occurs in all living beings as a response to a perceived harmful event, attack, or threat to survival. No dog wakes up on any given day and randomly decides to bite. A bite is always preceded by a series of flight responses such as –
- Avoidance
- Hiding
- Attempting to run
- Turning away
- Backing off
- Unwillingness to step into or be part of a certain situation
It is when these warning signs are repeatedly disregarded that the dog resorts to a fight response.
How to socialize a reactive dog
3. Lack of proper social skills
When you see a puppy relentlessly bite other another animal or a human in the pretext of play, despite multiple corrections, it can be attributed to a lack of proper social skills.
Puppies are exposed to social skills right from the neonatal stage (0-2weeks) when they are completely dependent on their mother and littermates for survival. As they enter their 3rd week, they begin to understand canine body language, vocalizations and bite inhibition when they start playing with their litter mates. As they grow up, it also their humans’ responsibility to ensure positive handling and exposure to their environment.
FURTHER READS: 10 GAME CHANGING TIPS TO TRAIN A REACTIVE DOG
How to socialize a reactive dog | 6 tips to get you started on the right note
Socializing a reactive dog—one that overreacts to certain stimuli such as other dogs, people, or new environments—requires patience, consistency, and a well-thought-out approach. Here are key steps and techniques for socializing a reactive dog effectively –
1. Take things at your dog’s pace
Every dog is different not only in the way they react to different stimuli but also in the way they learn. When training, it is crucial to proceed at a pace your dog is comfortable with.
At times, this may seem tedious, especially when you’ve been consistently working with your dog for weeks. However, it may help to remember that you’re dog is not trying to give you a tough time, but is having a tough time.
it may help to remember that you’re dog is not trying to give you a tough time, but is having a tough time.
2. Provide ample enrichment to your dog
Ample enrichment is a good balance between physical and mental stimulation. Reactive dogs are prone to reacting more and thinking less. It is crucial to engage them in activities that slow them down and make them think more.
On walks, ensure plenty of sniffing opportunities rather than focusing on making them walk right next to you the entire duration of the walk. When scouting for mental enrichment activities, take your dog’s breed into consideration as well as their natural inclination towards certain activities.
Eg- when trying to mentally enrich a Border Collie, keep in mind that they were originally bred to be herding dogs. They are also naturally agile and athletic. Thus, herding games, trick training and sports like Treibball may be great enrichment games for them.
Toys, chews and treats are incredible ways to motivate your dog to get off their butt and keep their mind and body engaged. However, repeatedly going to the pet store and investing in them can turn out to be an expensive affair.
For this reason, several pet parents prefer to sign up for subscription models. BarkBox is one such subscription model that delivers 2 toys, 2 bags of treats, and a surprise item—all in a theme exclusive to BarkBox subscribers. You can always tailor your box based on food sensitivities, chew styles, play styles, durability, size, breed, and more.
3. Do not force your dog into uncomfortable situations
Let’s say you’re terrified of snakes. Now, how would you feel if I’d throw you in a pit of snakes where they’d be crawling all over you and I screamed from the top, “Don’t worry, they’re friendly!”
That’s how your dog would feel if you keep forcing them into uncomfortable scenarios – terrified and highly uncomfortable. Repeatedly feeling helpless over and over again can result in a phenomenon in dogs called shut down where the dog becomes depressed and feels hopeless in the situation. Not to mention, it may increase the chances of unprovoked attacks in future.
4. Work within your dog’s threshold
A dog’s threshold refers to the point at which a dog shifts from being calm and in control to exhibiting reactive behaviors, such as barking, growling, lunging, or becoming fearful or aggressive, in response to a trigger. There are 3 levels of dog threshold –
- Sub-threshold: When the dog is exposed to a trigger but remains calm and under control, the dog is considered to be below or sub-threshold.
- Threshold: The point at which the dog begins to show signs of reactivity, such as tensing up, barking, or pulling on the leash.
- Above Threshold: When the dog is overwhelmed by the trigger and exhibits full-blown reactive behavior, they are above its threshold.
A reactive dog’s threshold is the boundary they are setting for us. This is the boundary we always need to respect and never overstep it. Training and desensitization efforts are most effective when the dog is kept in a sub-threshold state. Working within the dog’s threshold builds trust between you and your dog, which in turn accelerates the training process and yields positive outcomes.
Training and desensitization efforts are most effective when the dog is kept in sub-threshold state.
5. Consistency and patience are keys to reactivity training and socialization
Training and socializing a reactive dog is a complex training exercise. It requires expertise, patience and a great deal of empathy to deal with a reactive dog.
Socializing a reactive dog involves gradually and repeatedly exposing them to their triggers in a controlled and positive manner. This requires patience and consistency on the handler’s part because the dog may seem to continue to have the same reaction to their triggers despite several repetitions.
There will be times when you would just want to give up; this is when your ability to be patient and consistent will be most rewarding.
How to socialize a reactive dog
6. Focus on building trust
Trust is the biggest thing a reactive dog lacks – lack of trust in their triggers, lack of trust in their pet parents’ ability to protect them and lack of trust in the environment. You must remember that a dog that lacks trust feels threatened and this is the primary reason for them to keep choosing the fight response.
If your dog trusts you completely, they will choose to turn to you in times of distress rather than trying to deal with it themselves. This reduces reactivity by a good margin.
When socializing your reactive dog, you can build trust by always respecting your dog’s threshold, rewarding them at the right time for the right behaviors, never forcing them into uncomfortable situations and taking things at their pace.
a dog that lacks trust feels threatened and this is the primary reason for them to keep choosing the fight response.
Subtle signs that you and your dog are making progress in your training
“Progress” is a very subjective term and can look different to different people. This is why it is very important to set expectations right from the beginning. It may be tricky to track progress while socializing a reactive dog because you may or may not be able to see drastic changes in a short period of time. However, that does not mean progress is not being made. Here are 5 subtle signs that you and your dog may be making progress in your training and socialization process.
1. Tolerance of closer proximity to triggers
Every reactive dog has a specific threshold for their triggers. This is the point at which the dog begins to show signs of reactivity, such as tensing up, barking, or pulling on the leash.
Let’s say, your reactive dog’s threshold towards their trigger is 50ft; meaning, anything less than 50ft from the trigger would prove your dog into being reactive. With consistent training and socialization, if you see this threshold distance decreasing day by day, you can safely say your dog is making progress.
2. Redirection starts working better
Redirection is one of the most effective techniques to tackle reactivity in a situation. It helps instantly calm the dog down and shifts their focus and energies to something more desirable like sniffing or playing.
However, depending on the dog’s level of fixation on their triggers, redirection as a technique may or may not work. With regular training and socialization sessions, if you notice redirection techniques working their magic, you and your dog are probably on the right track.
How to socialize a reactive dog
3. Your dog turns away from their triggers on their own
Many a time, reactivity stems from fear. With repeated instances, reactive dogs end up learning that resorting to the fight option instead of flight response works better in giving them the space and distance they need from their triggers.
When rehabilitating reactive dogs, this is the mindset we work on. We train dogs to step down the ladder of aggression and choose flight instead of fight. Over time, with careful desensitization techniques, dogs learn to choose flight instead of putting up a fight.
When you notice your dog attempting to turn away from their triggers or think before reacting, it is a huge sign of progress in reactivity training and socialization.
4. The duration of fixation reduces
Fixation can vary in duration from dog to dog depending on their level of reactivity and fear. Let’s say your dog fixates on another dog on walks and refuses to move till the other dog is completely out of sight. But with continuous training and practice, he starts to turn away and move on at a faster rate every single day and does not wait for the other dog to completely go out of sight. This, although subtle, is a sign of a major improvement.
5. Quick recovery and consistency in different environments
If your dog does react, they seem to calm down more quickly post the reaction. This is quick recovery and an important thing to look out for in the process of reactivity training and socialization.
Dogs can be poor at generalization. It is possible that with consistent training, they may seem at ease in a certain kind of environment. However, they may regress in other situations and new environments. Poor generalization is the primary cause for this.
You can safely say you’re making good progress in training if your dog maintains their calm behavior and training responses in various environments and contexts and adapts to new situations with less reactivity.
FAQs
“How do I stop my dog from being reactive towards other dogs”
Dog-to-dog reactivity may happen due to a multitude of reasons such as fearfulness, negative experiences in the past, hyperexcitement at the sight of other dogs, high prey drive and so on. It is important to figure out the root cause of reactivity to address it.
Eg – A fearful reactive dog may benefit from socialization and desensitization. However, a dog that gets hyper-excited at the sight of another dog does not need desensitization, but impulse control practice.
Once you get to the root cause, work through it with your dog at a pace that they are comfortable through positive and gradual socialization and desensitization techniques, effective redirection and impulse control training.
“How do you desensitize a reactive dog to other dogs”
Always remember to recognize and be within your dog’s threshold. Your dog will effectively communicate their threshold to you in every triggering situation. Respect their boundaries and work towards gradually and strategically exposing them to their triggers. Reward them every step along the way and focus on engaging them in activities that calm them down instantly.
Never force your dog to be comfortable around other dogs and do not expect them to be “friends” with every dog they meet. It is not important for your dog to be pally with everyone they interact with. Enable them to have a choice.
How to socialize a reactive dog
“How to calm a reactive dog on a walk?”
The answer to this question highly depends on the level of reactivity exhibited by the dog. If your dog is mildly reactive, you can start by creating distance from their triggers and continue with effective redirection techniques. If your dog continues to be reactive and demonstrates behaviors like lunging, excessive barking, growling and so on, combine redirection with calming techniques and impulse control training to not only shift your dog’s focus back onto you but also efficiently calm them down.
Make sure to reward them at the right time, for the right behavior. Comfort them if they seem to be nervous or fearful around their triggers and allow them space and distance to help them calm down faster.
Handling a reactive dog can be overwhelming. Dealing with a dog that is excessively barking, lunging ad acting up on daily walks can take a toll – mentally, physically and emotionally. Training and socializing a reactive dog is an undertaking that requires commitment and willingness to empathize with the dog. If you see a reactive dog on your walks, be empathizing towards them and respect their space and boundaries.